No, this is not “lake fishing 101”. On this page, we’re going to provide 101 useful bits of advice for fishing a lake.
01. Many lakes have specific regulations. Some may require artificial lures only, others prohibit barbed hooks, treble hooks, or rigs with multiple hooks. So before fishing a lake, make sure you’re up to date with all the rules and regulations specific to it.
02. If possible, try to obtain a fishing map of the lake you’re going to fish. It may indicate creek channels, drop-offs, flats, inlets, or ditches, as well as have the hottest spots already marked. This way, you just might save some time looking for fish. Also, many apps or angler communities like C-MAP Genesis, for example, may have bathymetric maps for the lake you’re interested in.
03. A great place to gather intel for fishing in a lake is the local bait shop. If there is one close to a lake or in the area, it’s best to ask your questions there. Even if you’ve been on that particular lake several times and you know a thing or two about it, you may not be up-to-date with the current trends as they are.
04. Always look for patches of aquatic vegetation around the shoreline. They make great hiding spots for predatory fish like bass or pike. Not only that, vegetation keeps water oxygenated and also serves as shelter for a lot of small fish, snails, insects, in general, a lot of prey for predatory fish.
05. If there’s a lot of vegetation like lily pads or thick grass, weedless spoons are the best bet. They’re less likely to snag on anything. In lack of weedless spoons, or if you fear losing the lure, aim for the vegetation edges. Bass, but other predatory fish as well, usually stick close to the edges of large expanses of vegetation. Or, use topwater lures. If you’re fishing from a boat and the lure snags on something, it will be easier to recover if it’s near the surface.
06. If the water is clear, fish are usually pickier with their food, as they can locate their favorite food with ease, which often determines them to ignore something else. So, try using lures that mimic the typical prey of the fish you’re targeting, or the available prey for that specific time of the year.
07. If the water is murky, the best bets in terms of lures are the ones that make noise or vibration. Evidently, in murky water predatory fish don’t see very well where prey is, so they will detect it by hearing or by their lateral sensory lines. So, in murky water, it’s best to start with wobblers, buzzbaits, crankbaits with rattle chambers, or spinnerbaits. These, of course, can work pretty well in freshwater too.
08. Play the lure the right way. Most of the time, just casting and recovering the line/lure won’t cut it. It’s important to make the movement of the lure more appealing to the fish. So, alternate fast movements with slow movements, and even let the lure rest for a bit. You’ll often see that a fish is following your lure, but it seems rather undecided whether to attack it or not. In a case like this, a shift in the lure’s movement might be necessary, in order to trigger a strike.
09. Look around before each cast, or at least every 3-4 casts. Especially if the water is clear, there is no wind, and the visibility is great, you can easily spot a fish, so casting in its direction will increase the chances of a strike.
10. If you’re fishing with lures, bring as many as possible with you on the water. Regardless of the fishing conditions and time of the year, from one day to another, different lures may bring better results. So, if after a few casts one lure fails to at least attract anything, try another, and another, and another, until you find the one that brings results.
11. If you’re fishing with lures, use speed clips, or any type of clips that allow you to easily and quickly swap the lures. This way, you’ll be able to find the lure that works for the day in the shortest time possible.
12. Talking or making noise above the water shouldn’t disturb the fish by much. However, if fishing from a boat, avoid jumping, kicking the hull, or dropping stuff into the boat. Both the vibration and sound propagation underwater can spook the fish away, at least the ones that are in the close vicinity of the boat. However, if you’re casting 40-45 yards away from the boat, it shouldn’t matter much.
13. Motorboats definitely disturb the fish. So, to maximize “stealth”, if necessary, you can take along a pair of oars or paddles, even if you’re using a motor boat. They can also be useful in case of emergency.
14. Catch and release is not always a good idea. If the caught fish is badly wounded, and bleeding profusely, it’s best to keep it rather than releasing it. A fish that has swallowed the lure/bait completely, was hooked by its insides and the hooks have already done a lot of damage, or a fish that was hooked from its belly (sometimes this happens), might just have a long and agonizing death if released.
15. If you’re catching and releasing, use barbless hooks, or at least blunt the barbs, if possible. Those can cause some real damage to the fish. Also, it’s best not to use treble hooks as they can do a lot of damage.
16. If you’re catching and releasing make the release process quick. Handle the fish as short as possible; it’s best to grab it by the mouth (using gloves for toothed fish) and touch its body as little as possible. If you’re going to hold the fish by its body for a picture, wet your hands so you don’t damage its mucous membrane. Without that mucus, it’s easier for the fish to catch an infection and die.
17. If you’re catching and releasing use a stronger line. Not only that it will help you land the fish faster, but it also reduces the chances of the line breaking. Fishing lines can be deadly to fish and other wildlife. Also, avoid using a landing net if possible, and release the fish gently, head first.
18. The best water temperature range for catching bass (largemouth, spotted) is between 65° – 75°F (18° – 23°C). For striped bass, the interval is a bit lower, 50° – 70°F (10° – 21°C). Peacock bass is a tropical fish, so their preferred water temperature is above 75°F (23°C).
19. The optimal water temperature for catching walleye is 60° – 70°F (15° – 21°C). But as a general idea, walleye feed at night, so if you’re not going to fish during night time, the best times of day for catching walleye are at dawn and at dusk. During the day, walleye usually stick to a spot and don’t move much, so, in order for them to take the lure or bait, you must pass it right by them.
20. The optimal water temperature for catching pike is around 66°F (~19°C). Within this temperature range, they usually feed in shallow waters, around vegetation. However, as water temperatures rise above 75°F (23°C), they move deeper, or to places with colder currents. So, on hot days of summer, there’s a higher chance to locate pike in the coldest points of a lake.
21. The best temperatures for catching perch are similar to bass, in other words, approx. 65° – 75°F (18° – 23°C). Perch prefer spots with natural structures, weeds, reeds, logs, submerged trees, large rocks, and in general, spots where plants can grow. Small perch usually stay in shallow waters, larger perch are usually found deeper. They move in schools with individuals of similar sizes, so if you’ll catch one in one place, you’ll probably catch more.
22. Lake trout like colder water temperatures than the other predatory fish. The optimal temperature range for brown trout is 45° – 65°F (7° – 18°C). When water temperatures get closer to the upper limit, they’re rather hard to catch during the day, so the best bet is at dawn or dusk.
23. Trout can be very picky with their food especially when water temperature passes 60°F (15°C). So, if you’re fly fishing, always start with flies that mimic the insects found on the banks. Also, if you’re camping and you’re going to eat some of the fish you catch, you might as well look into their stomachs to see what they’ve eaten recently.
24. Fly fishing on a lake should be done quite a bit differently than fly fishing on a stream. First of all, don’t stay too long in the same spot, if you haven’t caught anything (10-15 minutes, then change the spot). If you’re wearing waders, avoid moving through the water when changing spots, if possible. Also, in each spot, cover a larger area with your casts.
25. If you’re going to use multiple flies, it’s best to keep at least one foot and a half distance between them. Smaller nymph flies typically work better on a lake than on streams. Also, as the sun moves up, there’s a good chance trout will move deeper, so wet flies used at different depths may bring better results.
26. During spring, look for fish in shallow waters. Many fish, especially predators, usually stick to the shallows as these are their spawning grounds or the spawning grounds of other fish, so there’s plenty of prey.
27. Fish deeper during summer. As the water temperatures rise, most fish will look for cooler water layers, like drops and holes. They will also look for layers of water with higher oxygen levels, like spots with vegetation or submerged streams.
28. Bass are more active before the storm. The pressure makes them more active. Conversely, they’ll stop biting right after the front passes.
29. Trolling on a lake is best done during hot days of summer when fish don’t move as much and typically stay in deeper spots. So, by trolling, you can cover wide areas in a lake and pass your lures by many fish, which should increase the chances of a strike. The best speed range for lake trolling is 0.5 – 3.0 MPH. However, depending on the species, fish may prefer a faster or a slower presentation. For example, for brown trout, the best speed should be around 1 MPH, while bass typically prefer faster-moving food, so a trolling speed around 2.0 – 4.0 MPH can bring better results.
30. If trolling on a lake, it’s best to keep the lure (or one lure) a few feet above the bottom. Or, if you’re using a fish finder and most of the detected fish are at a certain depth, bring the lure at least 5 feet above that depth. That’s because most predatory freshwater fish are more likely to strike upward than downward.
31. The best rods for lake trolling are 6.5′ – 7′ rods with fast action or differently put, rods with a stiff body and a flexible tip, to be able to handle a powerful strike as the boat is moving without breaking.
32. Most anglers prefer baitcasting reels for lake trolling. The size of the reel doesn’t really matter, just balance its size with the size of the rod, or get one corresponding to the weight of the line you’re using (thicker, heavier line – reel with a larger spool to hold more of that line). Also, if you want to do long-line trolling, make sure it can hold at least a few hundred yards of line. Reels with a counter are a plus, as they let you know how much line is left on the spool.
33. If you’re casting lures from the shore, it’s best to opt for medium-action, 7-foot rods. This is a fairly decent length and flexibility, great for casting even a small lure pretty far. However, if you’re targeting larger fish, a heavier rod with fast action may be a better choice.
34. Crappie are highly active in spring in shallow waters; that’s because they nest in spots between 1-6 feet deep. During this time of the year, this is where they also feed and where they’re easier to catch as they will aggressively attack anything that comes close to their nesting grounds.
35. Crappie usually prefer spots with submerged brush, logs, and structure to provide them shelter. During summer, they seek deeper spots by day time, but they feed mostly at dusk and dawn when they usually move closer to the shores or to open water.
36. Crappie can be caught with a high variety of baits including worms, maggots, insects, minnows, or other small fish. However, is much more fun to try and catch them with small lures. Evidently, some of the most successful lures for crappie are the ones that imitate minnows, but they’re also interested in small spinners, spoons, wiggle worms, and depending on the time of the year, you can catch them with surface or submerged flies.
37. Crappie typically have a soft bite, so light tackle with a sensitive rod is best for catching them as you can feel their bites easier.
38. The optimal water temperature range for fishing crappie in a lake is 68°F to 72°F (20° – 22°C). Above 74°F (23°C) they become sluggish, and usually go deeper looking for cooler water layers.
39. Similar to crappie, bluegill prefer spots with a lot of brush, stumps, and underwater structure. However, depending on the time of day or season, they can change spots. As opposed to other fish, they’re pretty bold; they don’t scare easily and can be caught while dropping the bait from a boat or a dock.
40. Bluegill are highly active when the water temperature ranges between 65°F and 80°F (18° – 26°C). In spring, they are bedding along the shores, so it’s easy to locate them by looking for their beds. These are circular-shaped and typically found in shallow water, near some brush, fallen trees, docks, or other structure. During summer, bluegill move a bit deeper, but you’ll find them largely at depths down to 15 ft.
41. Bluegill have small mouths, so you’ll need small hooks and bait for them. The most common baits used for bluegill are worms, crickets, grasshoppers, other insects, maggots, or other insect larvae. They suck in their prey rather than striking it like bass, so using a bobber helps, if using live bait.
42. Of course, a wide range of artificial baits can be used for bluegill as well. Small jigs with colorful bodies almost always work, but you can also try mousies and small poppers.
43. If you want to fly-fish for bluegill, you can use fly tackle similar to trout tackle. Medium or slow action rods, 7-8 foot long, 2 or 3 weight should do just fine, with light fly reels. Tippets in a range of 5X to 7X are the best choice, and when it comes to flies, your best bets are midge larvae imitations, Sneaky Petes, nymphs, sponge spiders, and a wide range of dry flies.
44. In lakes, smallmouth bass prefers clearer and colder water than largemouth bass. They prefer sandy or rocky areas; they can also be found in spots with structure, stumps, and submerged trees. Similar to other bass, smallmouths spawn in shallow water 3 – 15 ft. deep, while later on, in summer and fall, they can be typically found at depths of 10 – 25 ft. depending on day, temperature, and other factors.
45. The optimal water temperature for catching smallmouth bass is 58°-70°F (14°-21°C).
46. The typical tackle for smallmouth bass consists of ultralight to medium-light action rods, but some anglers also use medium-heavy rods. Depending on preference, you can use either a spinning or a baitcasting reel, but make sure your rod is balanced with it and it can hold the right amount of line you’re using. The typical line strength for smallmouth bass is 6 to 20 pounds.
47. Smallmouth bass prey on small fish, frogs, tadpoles, crayfish, and insects, so they can be caught on a wide variety of lures imitating these. A few good calls would be Mepps spinners, spinnerbaits, crawfish crankbaits, plugs, spoons, and soft plastics.
48. If you’re fishing for perch, light tackle is all you need. A 7-8 lightweight rod, a small baitcaster or spinning reel, 6-8 lb test line should do. You’ll need smaller hooks than for crappie, though, #6, #7, or #8 as they have smaller mouths than crappie. If the hook is too big, perch will usually nibble on the bait until they eat it all from the hook.
49. If you’re fishing for perch, the best bet in terms of bait is live bait. Worms, maggots, insects, prawns, or live minnows are usually great. You can also get great results if you tip a small spinner or a small jig with a worm or a minnow.
50. Perch prefer slower-moving baits than other predators. So, if you’re going full artificial, it’s best to use lures that can be moved safely along the bottom. Small, thick, and stumpy crankbaits or wiggle worms work great for this. Also, when playing the lure, move it a few inches above the bottom, with longer pauses, sometimes up to 10 seconds.
51. Several species of catfish can be caught in lakes all over the U.S. The list includes channel, flathead, blue cats, as well as bullheads. The optimal water temperature range for catching lake catfish is 65-76°F (18 – 24°C). Below and above this range, they tend to be lethargic and eat less.
52. In early spring, catfish feed mostly on dead fish, or whatever wildlife didn’t survive through the winter, and since the water is colder, they’re also pretty slow. This time of the year, dead baits and stink baits may bring better results than other baits.
53. In summer and fall (while waters are still warm), lake catfish will seek deeper waters during the day. They feed mostly at night, so by dusk they can move closer to the shores. They can be found in all kinds of habitats, from rocks to mud.
54. Lake catfish can be caught on a wide range of baits, including bream, shad, small minnows, large earthworms, frogs, eels, mole crickets, leeches, liver, etc. But a great choice, year-round, are the stink baits. Cats can also be caught on a variety of peculiar baits, like soap, pieces of hot dog, or cheese.
55. Although chumming is a baiting method used mostly on blue water, it can bring excellent results on lakes if you’re fishing for cats. In other words, you can pre-bait a hole multiple times over the course of a few days, to gather multiple cats in the same spot.
56. Smaller catfish are more fun to catch on lighter gear, so a 6 or 7-foot medium-action rod with a medium-duty reel, and 10-12 lbs line should do. However, for larger cats, many anglers use light saltwater gear. You’ll need a 7′ – 7’6″ heavy rod with a heavy baitcasting reel, and a 50-60 lbs test line, preferably braided.
57. Catfish are not line-shy. Therefore, you can use pretty much any type of line when it comes to color.
58. If you’re going after catfish with lures on a lake, poppers give excellent results in shallow water, for cats hiding under the shorelines. In open water, you’ll need deep-diving crankbaits or other similar lures.
59. Burbot can be caught on lakes year-round, but they love cold water, so they’re more active at water temperatures below 50°F (10°C). They are also nocturnal, so if you’re fishing for burbot, it’s best to start your session at dusk and prolong it after dark.
60. Burbot are benthic fish; they prefer deep waters and can live at depths below 900 ft. They can be caught at any depth, but it’s best to start at 20-25 ft. and go deeper. During the summer, they can be found even deeper than 70 ft. They prefer many types of underwater environments, but rocky areas seem to be the best bet for locating them.
61. Burbot are highly predatory. They attack prey even as large as their bodies. Therefore, don’t be too shy with the size of your bait.
62. Since burbot are bottom feeders, you’ll need heavy sinkers for your terminal tackle. Jig heads with heavy weights are the best bet.
63. The burbot diet includes whitefish, suckers, lamprey, leeches, trout, perch, crayfish, and pretty much anything that moves on the bottom of the lake. So, you can catch them with worms, small fish, crayfish, or lures that imitate them.
64. Glow lures with a piece of worm or fish are great combos for fishing burbot. The light attracts the fish and the live or dead bait on the hook seals the deal.
65. The best rods for burbot are medium or medium-heavy jigging rods while for the line, it’s best to use something ranging between 8-14 lbs test, depending on the size of fish you’re targeting. Braided line is the best as it’s a low-stretch line.
66. When down-dropping for burbot, an excellent technique is to move the jig 2-3 times, hitting it to the bottom, then holding it up a few inches above the bottom. If you’re casting the lure or bait, it’s best to cast it towards the shore and recover it slowly along the bottom, letting it rest for several seconds multiple times.
67. Most kayaks don’t come with anchors, so if you’re fishing from a kayak, consider installing one, so you can stay on the fish. Evidently, a folding anchor is a great choice as it takes little space.
68. Not all kayaks have pre-installed rod holders, so if you plan on fishing from a kayak, install a few. For kayak trolling, some anglers install the holders at the rear sometimes, but this requires you to turn and get the rod when the fish bites, and since the rods are behind you, you don’t have them in your sight, which may be inconvenient. So, it’s best to install rod holders on the sides of the kayak or at the front.
69. Some kayaks have pedals, but if you’re fishing on a lake, it’s best to always bring a paddle as well, as a secondary means of locomotion, just in case the pedals may malfunction.
70. When choosing a kayak for lake fishing, it’s best to look for one that has an elevated seat. Also, look for a kayak that can handle stand-up fishing; these have wider hulls and offer superior stability.
71. The best water temperature range for carp fishing is 60 – 72°F (15 – 22°C). However, weather conditions can be more important than water temperature for carp. The ideal weather for carp fishing is when barometric pressure has been low for a while, or is starting to fall. Also, if the weather was hot, with no wind, for several days in a row, carp will start moving and biting if the wind starts to blow, as wind oxygenates the water.
72. Anglers employ a variety of methods for catching carp. The most common is bank fishing or still-fishing. This requires medium to medium-heavy rods, reels with a larger spool, 15 – 20 lbs test line, typically braided (but mono works too), a heavy sinker for the terminal tackle, and circle hooks, ranging between #8 to #4.
73. Fixed line carp fishing or tenkara fishing is another fun and challenging method. It requires longer, and flexible rods, typically 7:3 action, up to 17-18 ft, with monofilament or fluorocarbon line, 3.5 – 4 lbs test, with a small sinker and 1-2 circle hooks for the terminal tackle. A bobber is optional.
74. The classic bait for carp is corn, but most anglers use their own mix of corn meal, flour, and breadcrumbs with various flavors and colorants. Hard-boiled pellets of similar mixtures are also highly used. Oily sunflower seed meal (the crushed seeds remaining after extracting the oil) also makes an excellent bait for carp. Of course, worms and maggots can always bring excellent results.
75. When trolling on a lake it’s a good idea to start with three lures, running them at different depths, one closer to the bottom, around the middle of the water column, and one closer to the surface. The first catch(es) should tell you more about the depth the fish are feeding.
76. For the three-lure trolling technique, it’s best to keep the highest lure the furthest from the boat 65 – 130 ft. behind. That’s because if fish may feed closer to the surface, they may go deeper as the boat approaches, and return to the surface once the boat passes. You can keep the other, deeper lures closer.
77. Especially if you’re looking for lake trout, try to find shallow bays with some weed beds. These hold plenty of bait fish, crayfish, insect larvae, leeches, and other fauna trout prey on. Some of the best lures to start with in such areas for trout are minnow style lures, soft plastics, or if the fish are lower, crankbaits that imitate crustaceans or fish. The average lure size range preferred by lake trout is around 60-75mm.
78. Lake trout usually prefer a steady lure retrieval without many interruptions. But if you’re fishing close to the surface, the water is clear and you see one following the lure, a little jerk or pause has a higher chance to cause a strike rather than just a follow.
79. An excellent setup for catching lake trout on lures is a 7-foot medium or medium-light rod with a 3500 size reel should do, load the reel with a 6-8 monofilament line, and you should be fine.
80. Bass don’t necessarily move in groups with individuals of the same size, like perch. If you’ve caught several small ones, you’ve pretty much located a spot where there can be at least a few bigger ones. So, don’t give up too easily on a spot if you’ve only hooked smaller bass.
81. If you’re going after musky, the best rod choices, in general, are within 8-foot range (up to 9-foot), medium heavy, if you’re going after big ones, or medium for smaller fish, with fast action (bending above its half). Pair your rod with a strong baitcasting reel as pike, in general, are tough fighters. The line test rating for musky should range between 65 lbs and 100 lbs, closer to the lower side of the interval (or even lower), if you’re using mono, and around 80-90 lbs test, if you’re using braided.
82. For pike and musky, an excellent lure size is around 6 inches. Lures this size can catch all pike size. Also, when it comes to lure weight, you can go as high as 6 oz.
83. Some of the best lures for pike are inline spinners, buchertails, swimmers, buzzbaits, soft plastics, and shiny spoons.
84. If you’re going with live bait for pike, small fish are the best bait. Frogs or large insects can bring excellent results as well. For deadbaits, mackerel or other sea fish make excellent choices as they’re sturdier and cast better.
85. For pike, a strong leader on the terminal tackle is a must if you’re going with natural baits (dead or alive). The best choice is a leader with two treble hooks already attached or at least one that allows you to attach two hooks to it. Attach one hook to the head of the bait and thread the other one through its midsection.
86. If you’re fly fishing for pike, large flies (sometimes up to 18″) work best, sometimes the uglier, the better. Evidently, for casting such large flies, you’ll need a beefy fly rod, within the 10wt range. Needless to say, a sturdy leader (65 lbs test) or higher, is a must.
87. When fly fishing for pike, it’s best to play the fly more like a lure than a fly. Skipping it and moving it around has a much higher chance to trigger a strike, especially if you see the fish and you’ve cast the fly near it. Pike have their eyes higher on the head and slightly oblique, so their visual field is wider than for other fish.
88. If you’re fishing with a float, waggler floats do wonders when it’s windy. That’s because, with a waggler float rig, you can keep all the line from the float to the tip of the rod under the water, which considerably reduces drift.
89. Spods and spombs are great to have for spreading feed for carp, tench, rudd, roach, or other cyprinids. They make it easy to drop a concentrated amount of feed in a targeted area without spreading it. Spots drop the feed at the surface, spombs sink, and drop the feed at the bottom.
90. Shaky jig heads tailed with finesse worms are excellent for bass and trout. For bass, it’s best to use the worms within the 6″ range, while for trout go with smaller and thinner worms. Finesse worms also make excellent choices for drop shot rigs or for Carolina rigs.
91. The Carolina rig is best used for deep water fishing, with a flat bottom, on sand or gravel, but also works pretty well in areas with humps or some structure. Since the weight is before the bait, it makes the lure less likely to snag on something.
92. The drop shot rig is also great for deep water fishing, just like the Carolina rig. However, it’s best used when down-dropping from a boat or from a pier. It’s also pretty important to tie to the hook on it with a Palomar knot.
93. If you’re using the drop shot rig for bass, 4″ to 6″ finesse worms are a great choice. For panfish, minnows or smaller finesse worms should bring excellent results.
94. If you’re still-fishing and fish are biting, consider using fewer rods, or at least secure each rod in place, especially if you’re alone. That’s because while you’re busy landing a fish, another one just might bite on a different rod and swim away with it.
95. When fishing from a boat, don’t let the line go slack. Also, as the fish is close to the boat, don’t let it run under the boat. It may snap the line, hit its head against the hull, unhook itself, or tangle the line in the impeller of the motor. The same goes for when fishing off a dock. If the dock is close to the water, don’t let the fish under the dock as you’re closing it in.
96. If you see that the fish goes under the boat (or dock) and you can’t stop it, a good idea is to get the tip of your rod into the water and follow it. Whatever you do, try to prevent the line from dragging against the hull.
97. If you’re bringing in an unruly fish that thrashes the surface or jumps repeatedly, keep the rod to the side with the tip low. If the fish is coming steadily, keep the rod with the tip high up and use it as a shock absorber.
98. Especially if you’re targeting larger fish, never keep the reel clutch too tight. A powerful bite may end up in a broken line or the fish may snatch the rod from your hand. Also, be ready to adjust the clutch of the reel as you fight a fish.
99. Sometimes when you’re bringing in a fish, it may come quietly, without any struggle, until it’s very close to the boat and sees you. So, as the fish is close, be ready for a struggle, especially if it’s a big one.
100. If you’re using a landing net, it’s best to gently lower it into the water and bring the fish in it, rather than trying “to catch” the fish with it. Poking at the fish with the net may cause it to jump or struggle and you may lose it.
101. If it’s raining try the topwater. Rain hits many insects that fly above the lake and will bring them into the water. Thus, during rain, it’s more likely for the fish to feed near the surface or in shallow spots.
If you’ve read all these tips, I’ll bet you’ve learned at least a thing or two, even if you already knew most of them. Also, if you’d like to add something to this list, feel to write it in the comment section below.