No, this is not “ice fishing 101”. On this page, we’re going to provide 101 useful bits of advice for ice fishing.
#01. Rule of thumb: ice is not considered safe to walk on until it is at least 4″ (~10 cm) thick. At this thickness, it should hold approx. 200 lbs. (~90 kg).
#02. Ice fishing in rivers can be extremely dangerous. That’s because water doesn’t freeze uniformly as in lakes, which makes its thickness difficult to predict. For example, in places with fast currents, or in places downstream from a warmer water inflow, ice can be considerably thinner.
#03. Although lakes freeze better than rivers, there can still be many weak spots. Geese and other aquatic birds can actually keep spots from freezing for longer periods of time. In such spots, ice can be considerably thinner than on the rest of the lake.
#04. Clear ice is sturdier than cloudy or white ice. That’s why 4″ (10 cm) of clear ice should be enough for an adult to walk on it. However, if the ice is cloudy, it can be porous and weak, so 7-8″ (18-20 cm) of thickness may be required.
#05. If you’re not certain about the sturdiness of the ice on a lake, start drilling holes from the shore and check the thickness and density to make sure it’s safe.
#06. Even if the ice is thicker than 15″ (38 cm) it’s never a good idea to drive a car on a frozen lake. Over half of lake ice fatalities involve vehicles.
#07. If you’re fishing on a new lake or body of water, always check with the local rules and regulations regarding ice fishing, such as allowed gear, allowed baits, total allowable catch, etc.
#08. Fish are typically less active in winter than in the warmer months (with some exceptions – i. e. burbot). Thus, you’ll need to look for them and drop your baits or lures right under their noses to trigger a strike.
#09. A fish finder can be extremely useful on the ice, especially the ones equipped with a transducer featuring a live side beam, like the ones in the Garmin Panoptix series. These can considerably reduce the time spent looking for fish and cutting ice. Here are some of the best ice fish finders at the moment.
#10. If you’re fishing in a rather small pond a fish finder isn’t that necessary. In this case, you can start at the deeper spot of the pond. Most fish will be there. However, they also congregate near structure.
#11. If you’re not using a fish finder, a bathymetric map of the lake you’re fishing on can be quite useful as well. That’s because it can help you determine spots like channels, drops, holes, bumps, or flats, in general, places that can hold fish. You can either find bathymetric maps online, on various websites or ask the local bait shops for one.
#12. An auger is the most efficient tool for drilling holes through the ice. Auger drills come in various diameters, starting from 2″, and going up to 18″. In general, cutting 4-6″ holes should be enough even for “fatty” panfish. Holes in this diameter range are also narrow enough to prevent a foot from stepping in and through.
#13. Augers can be manual, electric, or gas-powered. On rather thin ice, a manual auger can suffice; however, on thick ice, it’s going to take a lot of work to drill just a few holes, so a powered one is the better choice. Also, if you’re going fishing in remote areas many miles away from the closest town, a gas-powered auger is preferable to an electric one, even though the latest battery-powered ones are fairly decent too.
#14. Especially if the water is deep, over 30 – 40 ft. (9 – 12 m), fish typically don’t spook so easily. Sometimes, fish that are farther away from the spot where you’re drilling may be even attracted to the noise.
#15. It’s always best to drill multiple holes once you’ve located the fish or decided upon a certain spot. That’s because, in cold water, most fish don’t move as much as in warmer waters. So, even 1-2 ft. (30 – 60 cm) between two holes can make a difference between a few catches and nothing.
#16. Overcast or cloudy days are generally better than sunny days for ice fishing. That’s because light allows fish to identify their favorite food better, so they tend to be pickier. Also, predators like walleye are typically more active at night because they have superior eyesight which gives them an advantage over their prey. So, on overcast days, they’re more likely to take the lures or baits you’re serving.
#17. Barometric pressure has quite an important impact on fish behavior even if the lake is under a thick sheet of ice. As a general idea, high pressure will drive the fish lower and render them less active. Conversely, lower or falling pressure will enable them to move and feed more.
#18. Wind doesn’t affect the water surface on a frozen lake, so it doesn’t directly affect the fish and other organisms in the water. However, the wind is a sign that atmospheric pressure is either increasing or decreasing. Again, pressure increasing – fish will move and bite less; pressure decreasing – fish will move and bite more.
#19. Different fish prefer different environments during winter. This being said, if you’re targeting a specific fish, it’s important to know what type of environment they prefer to narrow down your search. For example, smallmouth bass prefer hard bottoms, rocky or sandy. In the early season, you can still find them at 12-15 ft. but by mid-season, most will be lower than 25 ft., on off-shore structure, bumps, or reefs.
#20. Similar to smallmouth bass, largemouth bass almost always look for the deeper spots of a lake (especially in a small, mostly featureless lake). However, especially in a large lake, if you can locate a place with some brush and green vegetation below 10 – 15 ft. (3 – 4.5 m), there’s a good chance they’ll hold largemouths, as well as sunfish, and yellow perch.
#21. Unlike many other fish, yellow perch remain pretty active under the ice and travel in schools from place to place. Thus, if you’ve caught one, there’s a good chance you’ll catch more in the same spot. You can find them in both shallow or deeper water, but places with submerged logs, vegetation, and structure are always great because they hold a lot of their food.
#22. The optimal depth for winter walleye is 20 – 30 ft. (6 – 9 m). They prefer spots with structure or submerged logs. Spots like these also attract bait fish on which walleye prey. Thus, if you’re using a fish finder and detect a bait fish school near some structure, there’s a good chance you’ll find walleye there.
#23. Winter walleye typically don’t move much, especially if they’ve found a place with plenty of food. Therefore, if you’ve selected your fishing spot, it’s best to start with at least 10 – 15 holes. Of course, the lack of bait fish in a certain area will enable them to move in search of food even in winter.
#24. Walleye are typically nocturnal, but mostly because they see well in the dark which gives them an advantage over their prey. This being said, overcast days or night fishing can be considerably more productive.
#25. Pike can be found at various depths in winter. The typical depth range for winter pike is 5 – 20 ft. (1.5 – 6 m). They are highly piscivorous and will always follow bait fish. Therefore, if you have a fish finder and you can locate schools of bait fish, there’s a high chance pike will be nearby. In the lack of a fish finder, look for vegetation edges, places with structure, and submerged logs or trees. These usually hold many small fish.
#26. Burbot are highly active in winter; some of the best burbot fishing is done on ice. They actually reproduce between December and March. In the winter months, you’ll find them at depths between 10 – 60 ft. (3 – 18 m). They prefer rocky places with hard bottoms, typically near drop-offs or holes.
#27. Burbot are nocturnal, so whether you’re targeting them during winter or during summer, it’s best to start your fishing session in the afternoon.
#28. Bluegill and crappie prefer similar environments throughout the year. They love vegetation, so you’ll find them in most places with thick healthy brush or weeds. In early winter, you’ll find them in shallow bays between 5 – 15 ft. (1.5 – 4.5 m). However, by mid-season, as most weeds die out, they’ll move to deeper pockets, within a depth range of 15 – 35 ft. (4.5 – 10.6 m). Ditches and holes that still hold small amounts of healthy vegetation always attract panfish during the winter season.
#29. Although channel catfish aren’t at the top of the list for many anglers during winter, they can definitely be caught on ice. Channel cats love muddy bottoms throughout the year, so you’ll find them in such environments in winter as well. They also love deep holes or steep drops. In lakes or ponds that aren’t deeper than 20 – 30 ft. (6 – 9 m), you should find them in the deepest areas. However, in larger and deeper bodies of water, they typically don’t go lower than 40 – 50 ft. (12 – 15 m).
#30. Lake trout usually move in small groups between shallow and deep waters in winter. You’ll find them at various depths, typically between 10 – 30 ft. (3 – 9 m). Sometimes, you can find them in rather shallow places (under 3-4 ft.), as long as there’s a deeper (15 – 20 ft.) spot nearby. Similar to pike, they’re almost constantly looking for bait fish.
#31. For rainbow trout, conditions are pretty similar to lake trout. It’s best to look for flat shoals (3 – 4 ft. deep) near drop-offs (10+ ft.) It’s also best to fish in the shallows, 5 – 10 ft. away from the drop-off, not in the drop-offs. If the bottom is populated with vegetation, always look for the weedline and drill your holes a few feet from it.
#32. Landlocked salmon are often found in shallow waters under the ice. They move a lot in search of prey, though, so locating them can be difficult. If you target them for ice fishing, spreading tip-ups with live bait is one of the best choices.
#33. For ice fishing, monofilament and fluorocarbon line are better than braided line because they catch less ice. It’s important to note that fluorocarbon is basically a step up from mono; that’s because it’s more resistant to abrasion than mono, and has low visibility in the water. But on the other hand, mono is more flexible and, of course, overall cheaper.
#34. If you prefer braided line, always opt for ice braid. This type of fishing line is usually treated with a water repellent to minimize the amount of water and ice it catches.
#35. If you’re targeting small-caliber fish, like bluegills, perch, or crappie, extra thin line is a better choice on ice, due to several reasons. First of all, it doesn’t get a freeze memory like thicker line. Second of all, it detects the lightest bites. And third, it’s less likely to spook the fish.
#36. It’s always a good idea to bring two ice rods for each type of fishing (i.e. two for jigging, two for dead baits, two with bobber rigs, etc). This way, you can fish with one, and when the line accumulates too much ice, you can let it defrost and use the backup.
#37. If you’re fishing with lures, it’s pretty important to have as many as possible in your tacklebox, in different shapes, sizes, colors, and imitations. That’s because depending on the day fish may totally ignore certain lures, but furiously strike others. Also, the lure that caught you several fish yesterday, may not be too great the next day.
#38. If you’re fishing with lures, swapping them until you find the right one may be necessary. To do this quickly, you can use speed clips.
#39. Playing the lure right can also be of the essence. Especially if you’re using an underwater camera or a live-action fish finder, you will notice that sometimes fish come to look at the lure but won’t take it. Changing the movement pattern can trigger a strike.
#40. If you’re fishing with lures and fishing is really slow, try “noisy” lures, the ones that rattle or emit vibrations in the water.
#41. Minnow soft plastics on jigheads are almost always successful when ice fishing. That’s because small fish like minnows are the main forage for most predatory fish.
#42. Yellow perch are very high on the prey list for both walleye and pike. Therefore, if you’re fishing with lures and targeting pike or walleye, lures that imitate perch are some of the best as well, right next to the minnow imitations.
#43. Some of the most popular and most efficient lures for ice fishing are VMC Tumbler spoons, Rapala Jigging Raps, and Mepps Spinners.
#44. On overcast days, or if fishing at night, glow lures, or at least the ones that have a slight glow can make a huge difference, especially if you’re targeting catfish or burbot.
#45. Jigs are the most popular and the most efficient lures for winter burbot fishing. And the jigging technique for burbot is quite specific. It’s important to knock the jig on the bottom to make some noise, then suspend it for a few seconds before knocking again. They can sense the vibration generated by the knocking of the jig and will almost always come to investigate.
#46. Especially if you’re jigging, don’t overwork your bait. Most fish and other organisms tend to move less in cold water. An overly lively jig during winter may actually spook the fish.
#47. If you’re targeting crappies, one of the best ice fishing methods is using a deadstick with a live minnow on a single hook, with a split shot 6-8 inches (15 – 20 cm) above it.
#48. If you’re targeting panfish on the edge of the brush, maggots, mealworms, wax worms, nightcrawlers, or red worms can work better than minnows.
#49. If you’re targeting panfish on small lures, tipping the hook with a piece of cut bait, worm, or maggot, can considerably improve the lure’s effectiveness.
#50. If you’re targeting lake trout or landlocked salmon with lures, the same lures you’d use for walleye or pike should do. In other words, yellow perch imitations should be top of the list.
#51. If you’re using live bait, one of the most popular ice fishing methods worldwide is jigging. This typically doesn’t require any specific rig. All you need to do is just tie a jighead at the end of the line, add some live or cut bait on it, then play the jig to attract the fish.
#52. A pretty similar alternative to jigging with live bait is using a split-shot rig with a simple hook for presenting the bait. However, most anglers use this type of rig for deadsticks. If you’re actively working with the rod, this type of rig can also be used with a soft plastic, like a finesse worm, or crayfish imitation.
#53. If you’re fishing with live minnows, it’s important to keep them in water at the same temperature (or close) to the lake water. This way they won’t die of thermal shock when you put them in the lake. A Bait Caddy is perfect for this purpose.
#54. If you’re fishing with live minnows (at all times, not just on ice), it’s always best to hook them under the dorsal fin. This way, it stays alive much longer, moves more generating vibration in the water, and provides an irresistible meal for most predatory fish.
#55. You can keep a large batch of minnows alive for multiple months to use for several fishing trips. The key is to keep them at a low temperature (around 50°F / 10°C), in a large drum or bucket with an aerator, and change the water periodically. If you’re going to use tap water for your minnows, let it sit for a few days to eliminate most of the chlorine. Feeding your minnows is not that necessary. Also, if you’re going to feed them, a filtration device may also be necessary.
#56. Suckers make excellent bait for lake trout, walleye, or burbot. That’s because they’re bottom fish and will dive right to the bottom taking down your line faster and easier.
#57. Although leeches are a great live bait for various fish throughout the year, they’re not very good on hard water. That’s because they tend to curl up in low temperatures. However, artificials that imitate leeches, like finesse worms, or Gulp! Jumbo Leeches, etc., can bring some results.
#58. Nightcrawlers, red wigglers, as well as wax worms or maggots, are great for winter fishing, especially for panfish, yellow perch, and trout. For the first two fish groups, they’re best used close to the weedline or above the weeds. For trout, in shallow waters (10-15 ft), near a big drop.
#59. Nightcrawlers are usually larger than wigglers or other red worms; they can grow up to 14″ (35 cm), or even larger. If using them for jigging, they make for a better presentation if broken in half (or if they’re really large, into thirds). The broken part will bleed into the water and provide a natural attractant when jigging.
#60. If you’re using earthworms like wigglers, they may be too small to use only in halves. However, you can either pinch off one of the worm’s ends or break it in half and hook both halves for a better presentation.
Of course, as a note to #59 and #60, worms used like this will die faster and you’ll need to replace them more often.
#61. If you’re fishing with worms, bait holder hooks (the ones with 1-2 extra barbs on the shank) are the best. These not only hold the worm well, but they also allow you to mask the hook better with the worm.
#62. Worms or larvae are, in general, light baits. So, if you’re using them for jigging, slightly heavier jigheads may be required.
#63. Cut bait can also work wonders when ice fishing, either on a jighead or as an enhancement for a different type of lure, like a spoon for example. Especially if you’re targeting larger fish, cutting pieces of frozen fish as strips (sometimes as big as the lure you’re using) provides an excellent presentation.
#64. If you’re targeting catfish, strips of liver or meat can make excellent cut baits. However, if you’re going to use liver, it’s best to opt for cow’s liver (if available). It’s more fibrous and sits better on the hooks.
#65. Pieces of hot dog can also work wonders on ice, even for pike. If you’re targeting pike on hot dog, it’s best to use larger pieces, just as you would for other cut bait.
#66. Especially if you’re targeting pike, you’ll need either a 25-30 lbs wire leader, or a 50-60 lbs fluoro leader. Pike gobbles up even the largest baits/lures, will clench onto the line, and cut it off if it’s not sufficiently resistant to abrasion.
#67. If targeting pike with large cut bait or live bait, it’s best to use large circle hooks. That’s because these typically hook the fish on the corner of its mouth with a much lower chance of gutting it.
#68. Circle hooks are excellent for still fishing or deadsticks; that’s because pretty much set themselves. Thus, when a fish has taken the bait, it’s better to just apply pressure rather than yanking the rod. A hard set when a circle hook is involved can actually lead to the loss of the fish.
#69. Wax worms are pretty fragile and also die rather quickly. If you want them to live longer, it’s best to hook them just under the skin on the back. However, this way they’ll easily fall off the hook when you catch a fish, or fish can steal them with ease. If you hook them through the head, they’ll die quickly but they’ll sit much better on the hook.
#70. Hooking wax worms through the head makes a better presentation even if they die quickly. It’s important, though, to pinch the worm’s opposite end so that its juices spread into the water attracting fish.
#71. Maggots can live quite long on the hook. It’s best to use extra-sharp and fine wire hooks for them. They can be hooked in various ways. For example, you can thread a whole one and cover most of the hook’s shank with it, and then hook 1-2 through the top of their thicker portion, allowing them to wiggle and hang on the bend of the hook. Hooking 3-4 (or more, depending on the hook size) through their thicker end is also popular. They can also be served on hair rigs, with or without a maggot clip, however, rigs like these are mostly used for carp, nase, chub, and other cyprinids.
#72. The tip-up fishing method is basically for setups that don’t use a rod with a reel, just the free line on a spool. However, they can also be used for deadsticks. Tip-up fishing is great if you want to cover a wider portion of the lake, or if you’re targeting fish that move a lot in winter, like pike, trout, or salmon.
#73. Tip-ups are available in various models (some anglers even craft them themselves). Most tip-ups feature an adjustable trigger so you can set various sensitivity levels to it. It’s always best to find the minimum sensitivity needed. In other words, set your tip-up just enough so that they won’t be triggered by the bait (if you’re using live bait).
#74. Evidently, if you’re fishing with tip-ups, it’s of the essence to keep an eye on them. If a flag is up, it’s best to act quickly or the fish may spit the bait out or empty your spool and snap the line.
#75. The best fishing line for use with tip-ups is braided nylon. As opposed to textile braided, or other types of braided, this type of line isn’t as rigid, doesn’t suck up as much water, and still is heavier and suppler than monofilament.
#76. If you’re using free line tip-ups (without a fishing rod and reel), you’ll have to work the line when pulling out a fish. A big fish can furiously pull the line and cut your hands. Thus, even if you normally work the line with bare hands, it’s always a good idea to have a glove handy just in case.
#77. If you’re targeting landlocked salmon on ice, tip-ups are an excellent way to go. You can cover a wide area of the lake, and tip-ups may be set even more than 100-200 yds apart. Live minnows (or other small fish, whatever is available or permitted) always work great for salmon, and it’s best to have them hanging only a few feet under the ice, not close to the bottom. This method can work great for lake trout or pike.
#78. If you’re targeting salmon on tip-ups, you might consider a stopper on the line to set the hook automatically, as well as circle hooks. Also, once hooked salmon move and fight a lot, so you’ll have to act fast before they manage to spit the hook out.
#79. Since salmon stay pretty close to the surface (sometimes they’re right under the ice), it’s a good idea to cover the ice holes at your tip-ups. Sometimes the sunlight passing through the ice holes can spook them. For this, you can use snow, cardboard, or whatever’s available. There are actually tip-ups available with a large circular base that can conveniently sit over the ice hole.
#80. If you’re targeting bigger fish with large bait fish, or large baits, it’s always better to leave the bait one foot, or even higher above the bottom. Hanging a large bait fish this way makes it easier to see from a greater distance.
#81. If you’re actively fishing with a jigging rod but also have 1-2 deadsticks, it’s best to set them in ice holes not too far from the one where you’re jigging. This way, the fish that come to investigate your lure may strike the bait on the deadsticks in case they don’t like the lure. Also, having the deadsticks close by can minimize the chances of losing the fish or gutting it, if you set the hook quickly.
#82. When using multiple deadsticks, it’s best to not keep them too close to each other, especially if fishing deep. If the sticks are only 5 ft. (1.5 m) apart, and the hooks are set at 30 ft. (9 m) depth, chances are a fish will take one, swim in circles, and tangle the line on the deadstick in its close vicinity.
#83. When using deadsticks, make sure you keep them visible at all times or even use tip-ups for them. Ice rod set-ups are not extremely heavy and a large fish can steal them whole if not anchored properly, or snap the line if they manage to steal it whole from the spool unnoticed.
#84. If you’re fishing with multiple deadsticks, especially at night, consider using electronic fish alarms or bells. Alarms are usually connected to the line so when a fish bites, they will set them off. Bells typically feature a small string clamp so you can attach them to the tip of the rod; when the fish bites and the rod’s tip moves, the bell rings.
#85. When using a bobber, many anglers use a slip bobber rig on ice. That’s because when you bring up a fish, the bobber needs to slip down the line. However, a slip bobber rig isn’t always necessary. For example, you can add a fixed bobber on a normal split-shot rig. All you need to do is drop the bait at the desired depth, pinch the like just about the water surface and make a loop, then attach your bobber with a rubber ring on that line loop. When the fish bites and you set the hook, the line loop slides out and the bobber pops off the line, falling either in the ice hole or on the ice, so you can pick it up and re-use it. It’s important, though, to fish actively with such a rig, because if the fish pulls the bobber under the ice, you may lose it.
#86. If you’re fishing with a float or bobber rig, consider using a cigar-type float. These are more sensitive and oppose less resistance, so that fish won’t feel it when they bite and pull the line.
#87. If you’re using a fixed bobber rig on a standard ice rod set-up, you can hook in the fish with the rod, then bring it out by pulling the line with your hands. Most anglers do this when catching small fish like yellow perch, crappie, or bluegill.
#88. The way you tie your jigs or hooks can really make a difference. For example, it’s always best to use a loop knot for jigs; this allows them to hang “naturally”. Clinch knots work best for most swivels, as well as for hooks with a straight eye.
#89. Spade end hooks typically offer a better presentation for the bait than eyed hooks. That’s because the knot needs to be on the shank and aligns the hook with the line.
#90. Unlike popular belief, the spade end of a hook does not cut through the line.
#91. The easiest knot for spade end hooks is the Domhoff knot. Once you’ve mastered this knot, you can also use it on eyed hooks.
#92. One of the best knots to use when in need to tie two pieces of line (without a swivel) is the water knot. First of all, it has a cylindrical shape which allows it to pass easier through the rod’s rings if necessary. Second of all, it basically puts the two pieces of line one in the extension of the other. And third, it’s a very strong knot.
#93. If your fish finder detects a bait cloud or a lot of plankton activity, it’s best to use bigger lures. That’s because predatory fish are almost always nearby, and you’ll need that lure to stand out.
#94. When ice fishing, always have something to sit on; a bucket, a box, or a fishing chair should do. Avoid sitting on your knees. This position impairs blood circulation resulting in cold feet and hands.
#95. Doing a few squats from time to time considerably improves blood flow which helps keep you warm. That’s because this exercise recruits some of the largest muscles in the body (quads, glutes, etc) which results in a quick heart rate elevation. Plus, this exercise doesn’t involve stumping or knocking the ice and shouldn’t spook the fish.
#96. Don’t tighten your boots too hard. This also reduces blood flow causing your feet to become cold despite several layers of socks or thick insulation.
#97. Wear boots with superior traction on ice. Any fall can lead to an injury which can put an end to your fishing trip.
#98. Cold hands are obviously a problem for ice fishing and the best solution is a set of gloves. Of course, handling fish and baits can be a messy task but does require finesse, so the gloves may have to come off. If so, it’s best to have a few rags or towels to dry your hands before putting your gloves back on.
#99. Another good idea in terms of gloves is to use a pair of surgical rubber gloves underneath your warm mitts. They offer excellent possibilities for performing tasks that require finesse, and the rubber keeps your hands dry and clean.
#100. If there’s snow on the ice, don’t shovel/swipe too much from your fishing spot(s). Maybe a few inches to one foot from around each hole, so you don’t kick snow into the hole when pulling out a fish. Snow provides better traction so it’s less likely for you to slip and fall. It also prevents light from passing through the ice so fish won’t get scared so easily.
#101. Finally, even if all the fishing conditions are great, it’s never a good idea to go ice fishing alone. If something goes wrong, it can take a very long time before someone comes to your rescue.
Some of these tips are pretty common sense, some of them you already knew. But we hope you’ve learned at least a thing or two from our page here. Tight lines on your next ice fishing trip!
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